Moving on from Quito to Otavalo

Just before I left Quito I went up the mountain to the north of the city which is overlooked by the Pichincha Volcano. The Teleferiquo is a cable car which takes you up to to 4000m where on sunny days there are some amazing views of the volcano and city. Although cloudy at the time, I really enjoyed it. The air was cool and thin which impeded walking too far but there were so many artistic photographs to be had of various plants etc and I really did not need to go far atall. I sat up there for ages watching the clouds roll in over the mountain, humming birds feed on a nearby flowering shrub and just generally soaking up the peaceful atmoshphere. On ascent I shared the cable car with a local guy who was on his way up with his mountain bike for a last practice before a competition the next day. From above he showed me some of the thin bike trails down and I have to say that looked so cool...next time maybe?

The night before I left Quito I met up with the overlanding tour company named Dragoman. Funnily enough the main reason for booking myself on the tour (before I left England) was to provide immigration with proof of an onward journey within 90 days of entering Ecuador, of which was not requested at the time! Nonetheless it has turned out to be a great investment and really helped me to see alot of the continent in a small amount of time.

There are two overland trucks running side by side with about 7 clients on each truck but this number increases as they progress around South America. As w drove out of Quito we stopped off at Mitel De Mundo on the equator. This little tourist spot is one of two Middle of the World´s, although the one we visited corresponds with GPS. We had a guide who showed us around the various demonstration huts explaining the historic native culture and engaging us in activites such as walking on a straight line along the equator line, demonstrating how the water cycles down the plug hole in opposite directions either side of the equator line and goes straight down when situated on the line. After the tour we set off again, heading for Otavalo which is a largely indigenous town surrounded by the peaks of three volcanoes. Following a good nights sleep we were taken out on a tour by a local guide who showed us a nearby waterfall and drove us up the mountain into the local farming communities. The Otavaleños are famous for weaving textiles, in particular woolen textiles and we visited a beautiful shop where we met a weaving family busily weaving away at the time. They showed us how they weave and continue to use natural dyes by demonstarting how crushed beetles extracted from one of their garden plants produce a red dye when crushed. We also stopped off at a local music shop where the family gave us a musical demostration using traditional insturments. As we passed through the villages it was obvious that tourism had become significant to the local communities and had bought with it more wealth. A lot of the houses were significantly larger and made of better materials than those I had seen in the jungle. In addition to this, the agricultural plots were significantly larger, although I observed many groups of locals in traditional dress farming in their terraced fields with only hand tools to assist them. So when you move away from the shopping centre of Otavalo where the infamous market can be found selling all sorts of wonderfuly coloured weaved items, you find a traditional way of life continues to exist. Little knowledge nugget: the Otavaleños were used as slaves to make goods to build the empires during the spanish

inquisition.

The end of the volunteer project and Quito

After another long bumpy, bus ride accompanied by many other sweaty homo sapiens and a first aid box with a religious picture above it, we finally made it to Tena for a last night of celebrations and goodbyes to volunteers staying on the project. The following morning five of us continued with our journey to Quito. Another long bus ride on exceptionally winding roads through the Andes (not conducive with a hangover as one of the volunteers discovered) led back to Quito. One by one fellow volunteers left for flights home leaving me to explore the rest of Quito on my own.
Quito has an old town and a new town. I found a really nice hostel in the new town where there are lots of european style restaraunts and cafes and otherwise known as ¨Gringo Land¨, however there are lots of smart casualy dressed Ecuadorian´s who hang out there also so it maintains an authentic feel. Mostly I enjoyed being reunited with filter coffee, something I had missed greatly when in the jungle. The colourful market in the Mariscal area was lovely and had a Camden feal about it.
I also explored the old town, the colonial part of the city with narrow streets and bussling energetic feel with trams, cars and buses and traffic jams and people everywhere in a chaotic but beautiful fashion. I particularly wanted to visit La Basillica, a gothic style church adorned with iguana figurines externally and beautiful stained glass windows internally. I walked for many hours with so much to see and chatted to a few nice locals who spoke to me in what has become my usual half English half Spanish otherwise known as 'Spanglish'.
On another occasion I visited the botanical gardens which although worth a visit did not compare with many others in England. All interpretations were in Spanish so the gardens were designed less as a tourist attraction and more to educate locals I felt. Interestingly there was an area dedicated to traditional Ecuadorian life in the jungle. This jumped out at me as there are people who continue to live this way in Ecuador. In Europe the historical interpretations of this kind are displayed as they no longer exist, but here they still do but I guess even the most traditional tribes are now using more modern tools and clothing on a daily basis perhaps.
Whilst at the gardens I heard a gun shot which at the time although it sounded like a gas gun, had my full attention. After the coop on arrival into Quito I was taking no chances. It was hilarious in retrospect. From the inside of the gardens I peered through the high mesh fence and shrubbery into the surrounding park to see a man and child running as fast as my heratbeat. On further observation I realised it was only them running and with time my adrenanlin levels and heart beat returned to normal and I could laugh at myself, having momentarily thought I would have to hide out in one of the buildings within the gardens!
It seems that Ecuadorian children of all ages accompany their parents at work when not at school. Its nice to see, it is a whole family affair where everyone chips in with either the work or looking after the youngest of the children. It doesn´t matter where you are on the street, people will walk past carrying items for sale, ranging from sunglasses to pictures, sweets and household items. There are no puch chairs or prams, babies and toddlers are carried on womens backs with slings made from sheets.
Having sprained a foot during my long walk in sandals to the old town I was given directions by the lady at my hostel to get a metro bus into the old town for another excursion. Not knowing how the local bus system worked I tried to enter via the exit turnstyles. Not seeing another option I made my way into the bus lane and hurriedly jumped up on to the high platform. After a short wait I boarded the bus but was confused as to how I paid for the journey. I asked a local who spoke a little English but was none the wiser on his response. On exiting the bus, following all the others I realised that I was meant to pay on entry on the otherside of the platform where there would have been a person in a booth taking payment. I considered explaining that I had not paid but quickly realised that with my poor spanish I would probably land myself in more trouble then it was worth. I exited the platform through the turnstyle awaiting an official sounding shout! Luckily it never came and I hurried away mingling quickly into the crowds, feeling like a criminal in a strange place. I made sure I paid on the way back and I think the cost was 25cents, equivalent to about 15p. The trip to the old town proved very fruitful. I was desperate to have a two way conversation in English so I met an lovely unsuspecting canadian couple suffering with alltitude having just arrived in Quito the night before and taking the opportunity to sit and relax on a bench in Plaza Grande. With my uncharacteristic (ok I lie) verbal diorreah I talked to them for hours and felt honoured to have met such a lovely couple and hearing all their travel stories.
Whilst here in Ecuador I really wanted to visit Mindo, set in the cloud forest, described as a must see in the guide book and well known for it's birdlife. I only had a day to visit due to other commitments but it was a real adventure, a cacophony of highs and lows! Again the lady at my hostel had supplied me with the travel itenary. I left the hostel at 7am and flagged down one of the numerous yellow ecuadorian taxi's, showing the driver the name of the bus station I needed to get to. On arrival at the station I managed to coherse in spanish with a local to establish which bus platform was required and on the buses arrival load of people tried to cram on to an already full bus. My bag almost went on the journey without me but I just about managed to cram through the closing doors. It was a long journey out of Quito, standing all the time but quick as the metro buses have designated lanes for their use only. I arrived at an even bigger bus station which although at first was daunting was quite easy once I found the correct booth to purchase a ticket. During my hour wait, I studied my spanish phrase book and dictionary for questions I would require for the rest of my journey and to make sure I caught the bus back to Quito by the end of the day.
After a further 2 hours on the bus around the mountains and up into the cloud forest through windey roads and rain, we reached Mindo. As soon as I disembarked a local Ecuadorian with very good american english was there to assist me with advice on what to do and where to go.
On her recommendation I caught an unofficial taxi ride to the zip canopy wires. A chance to climb into a harness and zip wire through the tree canopy with two ecuadorian guides who were very young and thank god aknowledged my request 'no mas rapido' and then arraged another unnofficial taxi ride to the Cascadas and back for a good price.
I climbed into the cable car with a women, her child and their dog for a short 3 minute journey over the tree canopy once more to reach the other side of the mountain. I then started my peaceful walk through the cloud forest to see two of the five waterfalls. It was beautiful and the light rain reminded me of home. The trail was easy to follow, although all the time I was working out how long it took me to walk downward along the trail and doubling the estimated time back up to meet my taxi driver waiting for me back on the other side to take me into the town to catch the last bus back to Quito. I liked Mindo and wished I had more time to spend, the people were friendly as tourism was so important to them. I did not see so much of the birdlife as it was afternoon and raining but the scenery was breathtaking and the experience of the journey challenging but great fun! On the journey back through the cloud forest and over the mountains, I could't help but notice the shapes of the old trees adorned with weeping vines which reminded me of the Ents in Lord of the Rings.....magical and I could imagine them groaning as they wisely reflected on the changing world around them.

More to follow soon x

Hectors Island in brief

Ecuadorian buses are prone to turning up an hour either side of their scheduled time, particularly in the rainforest. Nevertheless, we sleepily boarded the bus with all our belongings and food for the weekend at 5am. The journey was initially a very bumpy ride through the rainforest on the road mentioned in the last blog. It was great to pass the many small villages, with latino music playing in the bus and the many hoots of the bus as entering the villages. The buses in and out of the rainforest areas are packed, even more so with 25 gringo´s and hot and sweaty! After 2 hours the road became tarmac more smooth as we passed larger towns between forested areas. If I remember rightly the journey to Coca took 4 hours in total. We had a few hours in Coca, a large oil industry town, needless to say the wealth of the oil does not appear to be entering the pockets of the locals.
We then met Hector, our host for the weekend. We all boarded a motorised canoe and which took us an hour along the Napo river to his island of 115 hectares. From the island´s main entrance steps you could see the flame of the nearby oil extraction burning off the gasses 24 hours a day which was really surreal whilst sitting watching a beautiful sunset over the Napo with a back drop of rainforest.
In his early years as an anthropologist he had made trouble for the emerging oil companies in his province. He had learnt the finer details of the legalities of the extraction and how the mitigations for the environment and the surrounding communities, both of which were not being carried out in full. He fought for the rights of local people as he could speak their native language and although he was influential the big oil companies eventually got the better of he and his coworkers and they were scentenced to 2 years imprisonmnent. From what I understood, he fled and lived with native tribes in the forest for those 2 years and on returning he decided to focus on his own life and eventually bought the island and set up a charity. The island has become a release site for 7 endangered species of monkey. He also has a school on the island for children who would otherwise not have an education. He also works towards protecting the 10 existing indigeonous groups in the ecuadorian forest. If you wish to know more about his work see; www.sumakallpa.org

Whilst on the island we helped Hector make some clearamces in the forest and planted some mahogony saplings. Now that is a species I have never planted before! In exchange Hector took us out for walks around the island, explaining the fruits which have been tradionally eaten in the rainforest, showing us the varied bird and monkeys and often rousing the latter by imitating the call of another male. He also showed us how to use a blowpipe and spear and we practised on a target - an orange on a post. Hilarious.

Island life was cool for the few days, although river washes do not really get you clean and my bikini has changed colour forever! I didnt sleep that well either as the second night in the jungle hammock (which I was now getting used to) there was a massive storm which went on for hours and Hector claimed had been the worst for 17 years. If you haven´t guess already....the hammock leeked and after one and a half hours of waiting for the storm to calm I abandoned ship, well hammock with an inch of water around my backside!
Mostly lit be lightening, I gathered my belongings and ran to the kitchen hut where I found another wet volunteer. I got into dry clothes and slept on the kitchen bench, wrapped up in a mostly dry sleeping bag as I hadnt needed it in the hammock. When I say wrapped up, I mean it literally. I did not want to let the mozzies dine out on me for the rest of the night! In the morning we realised there were loads of others who had jumped ship in the night who were scattered around the place. That following night, the Jungle Frog was bellowing out again which Hector claims is a sign of rain. Well the Jungle frog was right, there was more rain that night too but not as bad and I had chosen to sleep on the kitchen table anyway!
Anyhow this was meant to be brief, so for now goodbye and I will get back to you with the Quito adventures soon x

Volunteering and the GVI Expedition

I hope you are well. I am very well, infact I dont know how I have managed it but whilst some others have been poorly due to the heat / food / sanitation / bugs / bites, I have faired reasonably well, apart from the initial effects of altitude, that is until today.....today I have the usual travellers you know what! Cant believe it has happened in Quito as opposed to the jungle! Never mind that though, there is far more interesting things to tell you about.....

The volunteering with GVI and the rainforest
We were staying at the GVI camp on the Napo river which on the way there we accessed by canoe. It sits on the Yachana Reserve which was established by an american man who fell in love with Ecuador, moved here and worked for oil companies, became disillusioned and upset at the way the local farming communities were treated so left and set up the reserve so he could give something back to the poor communities. He set up a school on the reserve specifically for children from poor farming communities. The school teaches agriculture, sustainable land use agroscience / engineering and is based on permaculture principles. There are several social enterprises which generate some income including the lodge which is the ecotourism side of things. The local communities in the yachanna area have benefitted in many ways including the development of a clinic in the village where the school is. GVI rent the land from Yachanna to run the volunteer programme and research. The land and GVI camp is on the opposite side of the Napo River which is a tributary of the Amazon, wide and fast flowing with varying currents and depths.
The Camp was as advised, basic. Dormitary style accomodation with cold showers, which despite the heat and humidity I did not get used to. The water for all washing, toilets and drinking was pumped from the local stream. As long as water was filtered, boiled for 10 minutes or chlorinated for 6 hours, it was safe to drink. However after 5 weeks of washing clothes in cold river water, they stunk! All 25 people on camp smelt the same though so it didn´t seem quite as bad. We had to get used to cockroaches of various sizes which were everywhere as you can imagine. With no refrigeration, food storage was interesting. With the heat and humidity everything decomposes so quickly, including your clothes! We ate well al beit a combo of veg, beans, pasta and rice everyday. Ok we were sick of porridge made with water by the end of the 5 weeks and I did miss my daily quota of filter coffees, infact there is a gas shortage in ecuador at the moment so we were limited to 3 hot frinks a day. All of this was all part of the experience though and it is how all the local people live.

After a weeks training and tests we begun the survey work. The schedule was full with small groups going into the forest throughout the day and night every day to survey amphibeans, butterflies, birds and cut trails in preperation for the mammal suveying. The purpose of the ongoing study is to research the effects of a road about 2m wide which now cuts through the reserve. Part of the road cuts through secondary forest but it also cuts through primary forest and it is here where most differences are likely to be found. If the research is significant it will eventually be published and may help to influence future road developments and / their routes through what is mostly already fragmented primary rain forest.
The bird surveys began between 5am and 6am and would include either a fast trek to site for mist netting or a fast trek to several sights for bird counts. Mist netting aims to catch a sample of understorey birds in nets to be identified, weighed etc and tagged. Bird counts were just looking for and listening for birds / bird calls from strategic points in the forest at varying distances from the road.
Amphib surveys were carried out by setting up pitfall traps which had been strategically placed with regard to their distance from the road and were checked daily for any amphibs that had fallen in overnight.
Butterfly surveys consisted of traps strategically placed according to distance from the road and set at varying heights in trees with baite to lure the butterflies in. Any trapped were identified, measured, marked and released.
To prepare for future mammal surveys we had to cut new trails through the forest which again were placed at varying distances from the road. I particularly enjoyes this. A trail of 4 / 5 of us with machettes, scrambling up and down steep slopes cutting through the understorey and marking the new trails. It all sounds easy but the terrain was particularly difficult, steep, slippery, negotiating tree falls, rivers and that´s without noting the heat and humidity!
The future volunteers will be setting sand traps with baite and recording mammal footprints but for my term it was slowly walking the new trails by night and looking for eye shine of mammals, many of which are so secretive and well hidden they are just so hard to see.

Anyway that leads me on nicely to my favourite times in the forest, which as mentioned in my last blog were at night. It really is magical. It is always hot and humid as temperatures are consistant both night and day which is another contributing factor to the huge diversity. The sounds and smells are amazing and for some reason I felt more a part of it when creeping through listening and looking through the darkness by torchlight. Maybe part of the charm was due to my main sense being significantly limited and having to rely on the other senses.
It was the end of the dry season during my visit but when it did rain, it did it in style accompanied by a storm. The thunder booms and shakes the whole forest, the lightening is incredible and the sound of the rain on the tin roofs at camp was immense. If we were in the forest during heavy rain / storm we had to get out quickly and get to the road (which could be 30 - 40 minutes walk away if we were unlucky) to head back to camp as tree falls are common. The soil is so thin, therefore the tree roots are shallow and the canopies are ladened with vines and epiphytes so when the wind is blowing and the rain is falling it is not uncommon atall to hear the snapping sound of timber. Just another moment where one realises how vulnerable the environment makes you. It really is quite an amazing feeling. One night we camped out and slept in Jungle hammocks deep in the primary rainforest. The hammocks take some getting used to as you are completely sealed in to stop the mozzies from feasting on you during the night. I didn´t sleep much! Oh and the hammock did fall down 10 minutes after I had got in it! In fact 3 out of 6 of us fell to the floor that night. Our rucksacks were stored under the hammocks and one of us awoke to a bag full of termites. Lovely!

Another part of the programme took us into the nearby villages to teach English to local children. We had to walk there of course which meant a long trek down the very hot and dusty road to sometimes find that school had been cancelled because there were no teachers! The village schools are very small and may only have one teacher between the 2 classes (infants and primary age roughly). When the children were there it was fun and they seemed to enjoy it. Probably because it was delivered by funny pastey looking gringo´s who seem to come and play games with them. There is a more serious side to it though, with planning and feedback and the hope that it will help the children in their adult lives.

The villages in the rain forest are very poor, the houses no more than wooden huts on stilts and in some cases more than one family lives in one hut. Families can be large and teenage pregnacy is high in the villages. The dogs can look shabby and thin. I did see one small horse/mule being loaded with grain bags to carry back to the farm. The road has probably made the lives of the people so much easier as it links them with main towns via the daily buses. Each family is given a narrow but long strip of land to farm. The lucky ones get a plot near a river / stream, the main source of water. Cocao, Plantain, Yuca, fruit trees and grains seem to be the most common crops grown and a few graze cattle. Harvests can be unpredictable as with any farming but where monocultures exist, the farmer is even more vulnerable. There is some european funding available at the moment which pays the farmers not to farm smaller parts of their land where primary forest remains. I wasn´t sure how I felt about this but in further discussion with GVI staff I was advised that it pays the farmer almoast as much as he would get per year if the land was farmed and doesnot have the associated risks. I am not sure how long the scheme will continue.

The Saturday market which is 15 minutes away by canoe was great fun. Completely different to anything I have seen before. A few huts / stalls mostly selling the same things, for example, chocolate, coffee, milk powder, beans, rice, batteries, writing pads, pens, small bottles of toiletries, some cheap cosmetic and jewellery, beer and terrible wine. A make shift pub and bar and a place where you can buy chicken and rice. The chicken was lean but it all tasted wonderful after beans for so long! The locals use the market as a social event and have a drink, or two, or three! A really nice experience though and GVI staff quite rightly asked us to not all go to one stall but distribute the purchaces so as not to upset anyone. The locals must love the gringo´s, especially when they have been deprived of shops for a week or two!

I will tell you about a short trip to hectors island in the next blog but as you can hopefully see from the above, the last 5 weeks have been busy. The schedule for survey work was packed full and the walking around the forest for houeçrs on end hard but rewarding. It was fantastic to see the lives of the local people and to interact with them. Life on camp was tough at times for many reasons including sharing a small space with 25 people of varting personalities. It was all worth it though x