Home from Home

I awoke to the humming of the bus wheels on tarmac and looked out of the window to find a beautifuly sunny day and GREEN VEGETATION, similar to the british countryside in the summer! After many months of travelling through the Andes of Ecuador, the desert of the Peruvian coast, the Andes of Peru and Bolivia then the desert of Chile I had been looking forward to this moment! I had arrived in the Lake District of Chile, soon to become my favourite part. The green grass lining the streets in an orderly fashion, the large fenced fields with animals grazing, trees, neat gardens and houses with pitched roofs.
I spent a few days in the touristy town of Pucon but the stomach bug that I had been gallantly fighting off since the end of Bolivia had returned with a vengence so I was not fit to do all the activities on offer such as climbing the active Volcano Vilarica. However I saw the beautiful volcano from afar as it overlooked the town and was reminded of it´s presence on a daily basis with the evacuation alarm tests.
Unlike in the previous 3 countries the pharmacy adviced me that I needed to see a doctor to get a perscription . At the hospital I was called in to see the doctor before I had even finished checking in! After a thorough 10 minute examination I was given a perscription for 3 different drugs. Again I was impressed with the efficiency in Chile!
The following day I checked out of the hostel with no confirmed plans as to where I would be heading. I had been in contact with two different places by email, a reugio in Huereque National Park and the other, a horse riding centre. Luckily Patricio emailed back half hour before the bus left towards his refugio, confirming my booking and arrangements to pick me up at the bus station saving me from the 2k walk with all my bags which probably would have finished me off at that point.
On arrival at the refugio I thought I was in heaven! The timber framed building designed by the owner Patricio and his architect friend is nestled on the edge of the national park amongst mixed evergreen and deciduous forest and beautiful lakes. Surrounded by streams you can sit on the tasteful rustic garden furniture and listen to the stereo sound of the streams, watching hummingbirds as they take nectar from the varying flowering shrubs, whilst admiring the surrounding forested mountains and wildflowers amongst the long grass and the accompanying sweet aroma.
I was welcomed with french pressed coffee, the first time I had come across it in all of South America and had sorely missed. To top it off Patricio was a very nice person, a Chilean man who has travelled, has an interesting career history as a TV and film producer and a musician and is a great cook and host! The refugio is a long term dream and for now it works wonderfully as a refugio for couples and families or backpackers like myself.
The day after I arrived I went for a hike to see some of the numerous lakes. Leaving the refugio I crossed a stream and walked through a forest with beautiful glades of wildflowers. After 5 minutes walking I officially entered the National Park area and climbed uphill following the trail which wound its way up through the forest of deciduous and evergreen trees ladened with lichen and vines of clematis and honeysuckle, stopping at waterfalls and lake views to take photos. By the time I reached the top the light drizzle had become rain and I made my descent through slippery trails planning coffee and cake by the log burner on my return to the house!

As Patricio had been so busy recently the garden had lacked attention and although this was noticeably advantageous in terms of wildflowers in the lawn, the vegetable beds and greenhouse had become overgrown with an array of weeds leaving no space for seeding.
The park reminded me of the English countryside in a lot of ways and I was feeling so at home that I decided I was not quite ready to leave. I agreed to help Patricio with the garden, something I love doing at home and I still felt I needed a holiday from being on holiday / home from home to help me recover from the stomach bug and constant moving location every few days! Patricio was extremely greatful for the help and kindly agreed to give me free board and lodgings. I even found myself carrying out house cleaning duties which I usually detest at home! But this was a pleasure as was the assistant cooking duties. Until now, I had never strimmed a green roof! The stay at the refugio and the great company was the therapy I needed and after a week I was ready to pick up the travelling baton once again.
Next episode....riding in the Cochamo Valley

Santiago

From the Elqui Valley by bus I passed some mediterranean looking villages on the way to Vicuna, a non descript town but from where I was going to get the next overnight bus to Santiago, the capital of Chile. Arriving in Santiago just after 6am I struggled to even get a Cappachino at the bus station, simple things like this which previously in Ecuador and Peru I had no problem. In Chile they speak so fast and as I was having to rely on my spanish more I was coming across more difficulties. Also if you are speaking to someone who has never learnt another language they do not understand the idea of key words just thrown together, with incorrect grammer.

I loved Santiago and it´s lively friendly vibe. It is clean, spacious with good green spaces, parks, numerous statues and monuments and has a retro, arty and cosmopolitan feel with plenty of colonial buildings to see and museums to visit. The weather was beautiful, hot and sunny and the people happy, friendly, polite and very helpful. It is a very fashionable city and I enjoyed observing the varying fashions of passers by whilst sipping good coffee outside street cafes. In the city I found the prices much the same as those at home and in general Chile is the most expensive of the South American countries but it is the most developed and organised of which I was thankful for at this point. The younger generation speak more english and seemed to be greatful of the chance to practice their english. They are very proud of their country although my friend was telling me how as a nation they are still trying to find their identity as they are a population of many different nationalities.

I had booked into a great hostel in a great area in the ´Bella Vista´ area. With a lively atmosphere and funky arty decor this popular hostel was a great place to meet people. Leighanne (a girl who I had just met) and I walked around town visiting boutiques, cafes and the well known seafood restaraunts housed within the huge fish market, the building of which was made in the UK. We sat on the roof patio enjoying the warm pleasent summer evening before heading out at 12pm with others from the hostel to go clubbing.
The DJ played ´poppy´ mainstream house and hip hop but annoyingly kept mixing too frequently! None the less, I managed to feel a vibe and was surprised to have a whole stage to myself! On my second visit to the stage I was ushered down by security....that´s why none of the locals had the inclination to get up there! Oh well I enjoyed it whilst it lasted.

The next morning after only a few hours sleep I awoke to the realisation that I had to pack and check out of my hostel! Without my bags I got the metro to the bus station to book yet another overnight bus journey. The metro much cleaner, more spacious and less hot than that of London with fans that spray a fine mist of water into the air aswell! It was easy to navigate and super efficient and once again I was impressed with Chile. I spent the rest of the day further exploring the city, visiting another park and finding a menu with cous cous and vegetables, a meal I commonly have at home of which I had been missing greatly!
My bus didn´t leave until midnight, at which time the station was still bustling with buses coming and going. I was so impressed with the efficiency and the popularity of the bus transport. With two drivers who share the many hours of driving, the present co driver practicaly tucks you in for the night, closing all the curtains and handing you a pillow and a blanket as the lights go off!